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California bill would force artisan tortilla makers to change their recipes.

MONews
6 Min Read

California is famous for being the first state to: No foie gras Now the Golden State is taking aim at another culinary tradition: handmade tortillas. A new law in Sacramento would mandate the addition of folic acid to corn masa flour. The costs of this well-intentioned idea promoted under the auspices of public health will, as always, fall disproportionately on small businesses.

Congressional Bill 1830A bill introduced by Rep. Joaquin Arambula (D–Fresno) would require all masa manufacturers to fortify their products with folic acid. This will impact tortilla producers as well as pupusa, tamale and taco shell producers.

The rationale is based on: research It shows that folic acid intake in women of childbearing age can reduce neural tube birth defects such as spina bifida and anencephaly.

Since 1998, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has mandated folic acid fortification. enriched flourThe results showed a 35% reduction in neural tube birth defects. data From the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

However, the FDA order does not apply to non-enriched grain or corn masa flours. Evidence suggests that Latina mothers consume less folic acid compared to other demographics, leading to higher rates of birth defects. California Department of Public Health data Only 28% of Latina women reported taking folic acid before pregnancy, compared to 46% of white women. A 2009 CDC study found that essential fortification of masa maximizes folic acid intake. 20 percent among Mexican Americans

In 2016, the FDA rule This allows masa flour producers to voluntarily add folic acid to their products. 2023 report The Center for Science in the Public Interest found that only 14% of masa products contained folic acid, calling for mandatory fortification.

Earlier this year, Health and Human Services Secretary Xavier Becerra said round table On the topic of corn masa fortification, an event attended primarily by trade associations and large retailers, this indicates that the federal government is ready to take action. Meanwhile, California lawmakers decided to move forward with their mandate.

The costs of government mandates are always the biggest burden on small businesses and entrepreneurs. Los Angeles Times Columnist Gustavo Arellano report Small tortilla makers like La Princesita Tortilleria in East Los Angeles are starting to panic. La Princesita is Nyxtamalization method (using only corn masa, water and lime), it has a long culinary heritage. thousand years.

Arellano, who likened the taste of the mass-produced corn tortillas found in most grocery stores to “the lickable part of a bag,” conducted a blind taste test of La Princesita’s traditional tortillas and the same tortillas with folic acid. He immediately tasted the difference. The folic acid version had a distinct but indistinguishable aftertaste and a more rubbery texture when chewed. La Princesita conducted the same test on its employees, who agreed that the folic acid version didn’t taste as good, let alone the color.

“There is a risk that traditional tortilla manufacturers will lose their market advantage over others,” Arellano wrote in an email exchange. “It will certainly have an impact on the bottom line, but even worse is the cultural impact. Imagine practicing a food way that goes back thousands of years. [are] The government said we couldn’t do it anymore, right? “Cultural imperialism at its worst!”

Few would dispute the public health benefits of preventing birth defects, but whether Martha’s fortification with folic acid is the best solution is debatable. Neither the United States nor California require added folic acid. not rich It emphasizes the arbitrariness of this command. Artisan bakeries using heirloom grains in the Golden State, frequented by upscale hipsters and other high-income groups, are virtually exempt from concerns about folic acid fortification.

Arellano argues that targeting Massa is speculative, given that: According to research Latinos in the United States consume more already-fortified flour tortillas than corn tortillas. “If you want the bill sincerely Arellano said he would take a holistic approach to addressing health inequities, rather than a dogmatic, stereotypical and narrow approach.

Alternatives to fortifying masa flour exist. may be added to . salt (None of them should be mandatory), which is already a time-honored means for iodine and iron fortification. There could also be more public education about the importance of folic acid for pregnant women, and women of childbearing age could be encouraged to eat more folic acid-rich foods or consider taking folic acid. Vitamin B9 Supplements.

The East Los Angeles tortilla manufacturer is advocating: exemption For restaurants and small producers. Lawmakers could also consider exemptions for producers below certain thresholds, leaving compliance and costs up to Big Tortilla. La Princesita was permitted to create a specific line of tortilla products containing folic acid, while also maintaining a line of tortillas from the original recipe. But so far at least, California lawmakers don’t seem interested in #SaveTheTortilla.

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